8 months in Ecuador / Nostalgic for Independence

I’ve been feeling fairly restless and anxious lately, but have been struggling to articulate exactly why I’ve been feeling that way.  As far as Peace Corps sites go, I live a very comfortable life here in Santo Domingo.  I have a relaxed host family, a nice home, and I live in a big city with lots of big city amenities.  But then today I went to the post office to check my PO Box (yes, I have a PO Box and yes, I love care packages from the US – seriously, I’m running low on contact solution), and I was so excited to have received a postcard from a friend who had been traveling in Europe in June.  Once I got home and was done being impressed by the fact that this postcard made it all the way from Scotland to Santo Domingo, Ecuador (OK, honestly, I’m still impressed by this fact), though, I wanted to hang up my postcard on my refrigerator, like I always do.  But then I realized I don’t have a refrigerator.  Or a desk.  Or anywhere to really display a postcard.  And then I realized that I desperately miss having a space that is truly my own.

I have my own bedroom (as per Peace Corps policy), and while it has a nice bed, a closet, a nightstand, some shelves, and a TV I turned on one time, it’s not really my space.  Not in the same way that my own apartment was my private space.  I feel like a teenager all of a sudden again.  I don’t want to hang anything on the walls because I’m afraid to damage the house, and anyway I don’t have money to buy anything to hang on the walls.  I’m considering making some sort of recycled art project from toilet paper rolls, but I would have to put nails in the walls to hang up my little project, which is a no-no.  My host family is great, but I know I’m not going to live here past 2 years, so I don’t want to damage a place that’s not my own.

I could move out now that I’ve been at site for over 6 months, but even so, I think what I’m looking for is impossible for me to recreate here in Ecuador.  I want my old apartment in Madison.  That place was hot as hell in the summer, with its thick carpet and western-facing windows letting in all the blazing afternoon sunlight, but this time of year was when I really started to love that place.  I’d get to see the trees changing colors right outside my window, and I could tell each night that more leaves had fallen as the streetlights gradually shone brighter and brighter into my bedroom without the leaf-covered tree providing me shade.  And it would start to get cold out, but I’d know that the carpet I hated to walk on the month before would once again be my cozy little friend that would help keep me warm all winter long.

But there is no true winter here, and if there was any carpet in Santo Domingo it would be absolutely disgusting.  Like, never, ever dry and mildewy as can be.  I like living in a warm place, though since I’ve never lived in a place like this before, I think my body is confused by this seemingly never ending summer.  Despite having spent my entire life dreading the brutal Midwestern winter, some part of me is certainly ready for a transition.  And maybe that’s what set me off on this restless streak lately, but I think what I’m really nostalgic for is the sense of freedom and independence that came with having my own apartment and the leading whatever kind of life I wanted to lead in Madison.  I had my own apartment and the income to pay my own rent, my own car, and could basically buy whatever I wanted … off the clearance rack at H&M.

I’ve never considered myself a very materialistic person.  Most everyone who came over to my Madison apartment would describe my place in one of two ways.  If they liked my decor, they would compliment it as “minimalistic.”  If they didn’t, they would describe it as “austere.”  I don’t like having a lot of stuff, which, this being a Peace Corps blog, shouldn’t really come as a surprise.  I guess I am surprised, however, at how much I miss feeling financially independent.  And just overall independent, too.  I’m actually not struggling financially here because I think my living stipend is sufficient for the standard of living in Santo Domingo, but that’s also because I’m very cautious about how and when I spend my money.  And I know if I get an apartment for the rest of my service, I’m going to have spend a lot of money on the basics.  Like a refrigerator upon which I can hang my postcard (fun fact: most apartment kitchens do not come furnished with a refrigerator, stove, or oven like apartments in the US).

Ultimately, though, I have to admit that I’m just not as independent a person here as I was in the US.  And I miss that sense of independence, which I guess is a very US American sentiment.  I have Ecuadorian host parents who pretty much take care of all major and minor household issues.  I have no idea how to change the gas tank when we run out of kitchen gas, or how to get the water cistern refilled, or where to go to pay the electric bill (another fun fact: the electric bill gets delivered on tiny slips of paper by delivery guys from the company and then you go to some office or bill paying place to pay your bill in Santo Domingo, I just don’t know where).  And I’m still figuring out how to live here in general.  It’s a humbling experience.

My life is both privileged and small here.  It’s been a challenging, exciting, stressful, exhilarating, you-name-it 8 months here.  Only 19 more to go.

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Also, I miss Polish cheese.  Throwback photo to a wintery trip to Poland with Camille, my best European traveling buddy, who continues to send me postcards from Europe 🙂

100 Days ’til Christmas

Well, it’s technically 105 days until Christmas, but my Christmas comes on December 20th this year.  I’m coming home for 2 weeks, and I could not be more excited.  I’ve already requested my home cooked menu for my first day home – huevitos con chile with real tortillas de maíz for lunch, mole for dinner, obviously.

In an effort to stay grounded here, though, I figured I should finally check in with this blog.  It’s been months, I know.  Since I can’t bring myself to give a detailed recap of the past few months,  instead, as a means of attempting to reengage with this whole blog idea, I’ll attempt to give you a little insight into my life as a Peace Corps volunteer in Santo Domingo.

I have a lot of free time.  My working days at school are, at maximum, around 6 hours long.  That leaves a lot of time to kill/fill.  Fortunately, I’m pretty good at entertaining myself and am an excellent conversationalist regardless of whether anyone else is around to hear my English ramblings.  I’m certain any number of strangers on the streets of Santo Domingo can attest to this, as I can be found at all hours of the day walking around town mumbling and gesticulating to myself.  Actually, I’m pretty sure a lot of people who know me can attest to that.  Working as an English teacher at a school of 3400 means I run into students pretty much every time I step out of my house.  Every time I go to the market, a coffee shop, anywhere really, I can except to hear “Hello, teacher!” coming from some direction.  The worst/best is when students stop me to say hello mid-run when I’m obscenely sweaty.  I love that I have students who are really happy to see me, but it makes me wish it wasn’t so hot here.  The price of local celebrity, I guess.

 

When I don’t want to be a local celebrity anymore, though, I do get to go on some pretty amazing vacations … Come visit me and we can travel together.  When I have a free long weekend, my life can actually be pretty amazing here:

Waterfalls, beaches, volcanic lakes, mountains, and monkeys.  Que viva Ecuador!

2 months at site / 2 nights in the hospital

Today I get to celebrate 2 months in Santo Domingo, and I really do have cause to celebrate this tiny milestone.

Foremost in my mind is the fact that I also get to celebrate being 2 days removed from a stint in the hospital this weekend.  I’ll spare you the details, but suffice it to say that I had a severe case of bacterial gastroenteritis.  Gross.

I’m incredibly happy to be out of the hospital, and to have received excellent medical care here in Santo Domingo.  I’m eager to get my energy back to 100% so I can get back into the routine of work, life, eating solid food, etc.

You know what?  I’ve been debating whether or not to get specific with this blog post about gastroenteritis, but I can’t really get into at all unless I get detailed, so what the hell.  If the Peace Corps has trained me for anything, it’s trained me to be OK with talking about gastroenteritis.  This type of talk usually stays between Peace Corps Volunteers, but this is a Peace Corps blog, so why not talk about it here?

I have absolutely no idea what made me sick, but it made me violently ill on Friday afternoon.  One theory is improperly boiled coffee that I had on Thursday night.  I don’t think that’s what it was (I have no basis for thinking this), but in any case, I’ll probably never go back to that café despite the fact that the coffee was good and the quimbolitos were delicious.  Easy enough.  But like I said, I have no idea if the coffee is what made me sick.  And if it wasn’t the coffee, then I did it to myself, because I ate breakfast and lunch at home on Friday morning, which I prepared myself.  And this is what is truly distressing for me.

It’s distressing because you sacrifice so much control when you move to a new country and have to adapt to a new culture.  Despite my own Latino heritage and the affinity I feel for many Ecuadorian customs, it is indeed an adjustment.  I love eating with Ecuadorians and trying new foods, but I also love to cook my own food.  Cooking and baking have always been a somewhat therapeutic act for me, and that’s continued to be true for me in Ecuador, but cooking has also become an expression of independence, identity and, frankly, control.

I can’t control the weather (read: earthquake), global politics, other people’s behavior, but I can control my food, which is more than other volunteers can say – my host family is wonderfully relaxed and not offended by my cooking my own weird-by-Ecuadorian-standards, healthy meals.  But now I’m hugely paranoid about my meals and my antibiotic-devastated gut flora.  All of a sudden, food has gone from a source of comfort to a source of stress.

I realize a lot of the language I’m using might be throwing up (unfortunate pun acknowledged) some food-issue red flags, but my health (and particularly my stomach) was honestly my number 1 concern coming to Ecuador.  I love my gut.  It is vital for my health, and I made it almost 5 months before getting sick.  I guess in the grand scheme of things, if I only g0t sick once in 5 months, that’s a pretty good track record.  Now I guess I just have to be extra careful with my food prep and consumption from here on out.

22 (hopefully healthy) months to go!

On a lighter note, no blog post 2 weekends ago because I was too busy in Salinas with this wonderful group people living that yacht life… the ups and downs of Peace Corps in Ecuador, all in one post.

salinas yacht

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Also, seals (lobos marinos) at La Lobería

 

 

Réplicas / Aftershocks

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El Panecillo, Quito’s apocalyptic virgin

This week started off well enough, and I had been looking forward to finally having a regular work schedule.  Students would be attending school regularly and on their normal schedules for the first time this school year on the Coast starting Monday.

And Monday was great.  I got to meet some of the 7th, 8th and 9th graders I will be working this week.  I’m the first Peace Corps volunteer to work at my school, so students are generally pretty excited to learn that they will have a native English speaker in their classes for the next two years, but the 7th graders are the clear winners in terms of enthusiasm and shock.  It’s a pretty spectacular ego boost when you introduce yourself and your audience’s jaws fall to the floor, followed by a huge round of applause.

So I left Santo Domingo for Quito feeling great on Tuesday morning.  I was excited to see my fellow volunteers in neighboring provinces and spend some time in Quito.  I had a blast – craft beer, good pizza, and morocho when it’s actually chilly enough to really appreciate are just a few of the things I appreciate about Quito after a month away.

But then 3am rolled around, and I was rudely awoken by yet another aftershock.  I’d noticed that the neighborhood I was staying in was unusually quiet.  It’s rare, at least in my experience, to fall asleep in Ecuador without hearing dogs barking at least occasionally.  So it was quite the marked difference when all the neighborhood dogs were barking furiously at 3am, and then I noticed that the beds in the hostel dorm were banging and clanging around.  It was a 6.8 aftershock and felt really strong in Quito, so I can’t even imagine what it felt like in Santo Domingo or in Esmeraldas, this aftershock’s epicenter.

Around noon, still on Wednesday, I was walking around the center of Quito with a couple fellow volunteers in search of a yoga mat (success! another Quito perk), when there was another major aftershock.  Some sources said 6.8, others 7.2, but either way, another big one.  Somehow I didn’t feel this one, though, and I am so grateful.  Another friend was maybe 3 blocks away and definitely felt it, so I don’t know what spared us from feeling this one, but I’m honestly glad I didn’t.  I also have to admit that I’m grateful that I wasn’t at school on Wednesday.  I would have been on the third floor of one of our blocks, along with 700 students, and I can’t imagine how difficult it must have been for my fellow teachers and students to live through that.  Amazingly, though the building had been damaged in the initial earthquake, it seems to have sustained no further major damage, and no one was hurt.

Emotionally, though, it feels like we’re back to where we were right after the initial earthquake.  Things were just getting back to normal, and students and teachers alike seemed really happy to be getting back to our regular routines.  We didn’t have school Thursday or Friday, but I hope things will once again start to get back to normal this week.  All of this relentless destruction is really heartbreaking, even as an outsider who has only been in Ecuador since January.

But life goes on in Santo Domingo.  Here are this week’s highlights/distractions from earthquakes and humidity:

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Top: First ever manicure.  Bottom left: Patacón Burger, AKA the best of America and Ecuador in one.  Bottom right: Scary coffee art courtesy of my local barista

 

One month at site

This Friday marked my one month anniversary in Santo Domingo, and I didn’t even realize it until I saw everyone else’s Facebook posts on Saturday.  By coincidence, though, I spent the weekend enjoying Santo Domingo, and I figured I’d take advantage of this sweltering Sunday afternoon to share a couple highlights about my time in Santo Domingo so far.

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El Esfuerzo, Santo Domingo

A couple of weeks ago, my host parents took me and one of my site mates to visit El Esfuerzo on a drizzly Saturday afternoon.  Santo Domingo is part of the coastal region of Ecuador, but it’s actually a landlocked province.  Rather than going to the beach to escape the heat, then, people head to the rivers here.  The heavy rains this time of year make the rivers far too dangerous for a weak swimmer like me to venture in, so I’ll keep skipping stones for a couple of months until the dry season comes.

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With the rain come the rainbows / the view from my bedroom window

This week I head back to Quito for a couple of days.  Wish me luck with the altitude and navigating what feels like a megacity compared to Santo Domingo!

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Quito, view from the roof of the Asamblea Nacional

At last

After several months of being in Ecuador now, I’ve finally gotten around to starting my Peace-Corps-chronicling blog.  I arrived in Ecuador at the end of January and spent nearly three months preparing to be an English Language Teacher Trainer.  At long last, today is finally my first day of school.

I’m so eager to start working with students – it feels like January was eons ago, though time really has flown by and been packed with experiences and adventures – meeting new friends, living with wonderful host families, hiking in the Andes, a massive earthquake, to name a few.

Today feels like the true beginning of my adventure with the Peace Corps, or at least what I’d envisioned when I first started the whole process of becoming a volunteer back in the States over a year ago.  And today is certainly going to be an adventure!  The latest news is that some of my classes and I will be having class outside because our building is under repair for damage from the earthquake.  Hopefully it doesn’t rain!

Santo Domingo de Los Tsáchilas, home for the next 2 years
Santo Domingo de Los Tsáchilas, home for the next 2 years